Dr Alek Nikolic’s Guide for Male Skin
Ageing Through the Ages
Find out how male skin is different to female skin and what changes to expect and get the latest info on skin care products and cosmetic treatments to consider in your twenties, thirties, forties and beyond.
How is male skin different to female skin in its composition and how it ages?
Generally speaking male skin has a number of differences to female skin:
- An increased amount of collagen and elastin
- Skin is generally thicker and has more sebaceous glands which increases the oil concentration resulting in a slower ageing process and increased moisturisation
- Shaving also helps to reduce ageing as a mechanical exfoliation is taking place with a resultant increase of collagen stimulation
What factors, internal and external, contribute to how male skin ages?
The factors are the same for both males and females:
- External:
- Sun damage our biggest culprit
- Environmental factors: free radicles, pollution, smoking, alcohol, etc.
- Health and fitness: obesity and lack of exercise effects the skins ageing process; by reducing oxygen and nutrients to the skin.
- Internal:
- Genetics
- Skin type: the darker the skin the more collagen is present and the greater the UV protection so visible signs of ageing is slower than those with a light skin type.
- Natural ageing process: reduced collagen and elastin production, a drop and thinning of the underlying fat pads that support the overlying skin, elongation of muscles that support structures they begin to sag and a reduction of bone density (in the skull) and with it a further loss of skin support.
What are your three most important pieces of advice for taking care of male skin and preventing premature ageing?
- Sun block, sun block and more sun block: UV damage is the biggest factor that ages the skin so protecting it from UV damage is the number one priority
- Apply moisturiser twice daily especially after shaving
- Avoid excessive alcohol, exercise regularly and consider a low sugar diet
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In Your Twenties
What main changes can you expect to see in your skin?
Besides ones blemishes and pimples subsiding not much change will be seen from your teens. In some men a slight change in texture may take place.
What specific ingredients and types of products does the skin need most during these years?
- Sunscreen
- Retinol: Dermaceutic Active Retinol 0.5 or SkinCeuticals Retinol 0.3
- Find out why retinol is so important for your skin: Which Strength of Retinol Do I Need?
Top Professional Product Recommendation:
Sunblock that contains zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide applied several times daily: Heliocare SPF 50, Dermaceutic Sun Ceutic or SkinCeuticals Physical Fusion UV Defense
Top Aesthetic Procedure Recommendation:
Superficial Chemical Peel: superficial chemical peels (NeoStrata Glycolic Acid but do not have these soon after shaving as it will sting excessively and may cause a mild skin reaction)
In Your Thirties
What main changes can you expect to see in your skin?
- Wrinkles or fine lines will just start to appear predominantly in the frown area and around the eyes (crow’s feet)
- One may see an increase in the number of pores and a reduction in the smoothness of the skin
- A deepening of the nasolabial fold
- Some men may see some fat loss in the cheeks and around the mouth area
What specific ingredients and types of products does the skin need most during these years?
Specific ingredients:
- Growth factors: peptides and plant derived stem cells
- Glycolic acid for exfoliation and cell renewal
- Zinc oxide or titanium dioxide for UV protection
- Antioxidants: vitamin C, vitamin A, Ferulic Acid, Vitamin E
Top Professional Product Recommendation:
- Sunscreens:
Sunblock that contains zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide applied several times daily: Heliocare SPF 50, Dermaceutic Sun Ceutic or SkinCeuticals Physical Fusion UV Defense
- Anti-Oxidants:
- SkinCeuticals Phloretin CF (contains Phloretin, vitamin C and Ferulic Acid) which are powerful anti-oxidants to prevent the ageing process and helps with any discolouration
- Exuviance Vitamin C Booster Powder: read more Vitamin C for Anti-Aging & Brighter, Healthier Skin
- Dermaceutic Active Retinol 0.5 or SkinCeuticals Retinol 0.3
- Find out why retinol is so important for your skin: Which Strength of Retinol Do I Need?
- Moisturisers with Peptides and Glycolic Acid:
- NEOSTRATA SKIN ACTIVE MATRIX SUPPORT SPF 30
- NEOSTRATA SKIN ACTIVE CELLULAR RESTORATION
- DERMACEUTIC C25 CREAM
Top Aesthetic Procedure Recommendation:
- Superficial chemical peels
- Botox frown and crow’s feet (if necessary).
In your 40s
What main changes can you expect to see in your skin?
Skin starts to lose its naturally elasticity or bounce; a more sallow or dull colour (less glow); deepening of wrinkles around the eyes and frown with forehead lines creeping in; visible pores and a rough texture of the skin. Deeper shadows can be seen on the face with a loss of the underlying fat pads. Some men may even notice the appearance of pigmentation marks and fine veins.
What specific ingredients and types of products does the skin need most during these years?
Same as thirties but one needs to add: extra anti-oxidants (day and night) such as resveratrol. Increase hydration with serums to further enhance the plumpness of the skin
Top Professional Product Recommendation:
Sunscreens:
Sunblock that contains zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide applied several times daily: Heliocare SPF 50, Dermaceutic Sun Ceutic or SkinCeuticals Physical Fusion UV Defense
Anti-Oxidants:
- SkinCeuticals Phloretin CF (contains Phloretin, vitamin C and Ferulic Acid) which are powerful anti-oxidants to prevent the ageing process and helps with any discolouration
- Exuviance Vitamin C Booster Powder: read more Vitamin C for Anti-Aging & Brighter, Healthier Skin
- Dermaceutic Active Retinol 0.5 or SkinCeuticals Retinol 0.3
- Find out why retinol is so important for your skin: Which Strength of Retinol Do I Need?
- Consider Adding:
- NeoStrata Skin Active Dermal Replenishment or SkinCeuticals Hydrating B5
- SkinCeuticals Resveratrol BE (at night) Please note that Resveratrol BE does contain some small amounts of denatured alcohol which some skin acre experts believe may strip the skin of essential oils. According to SkinCeuticals the amount placed is only as a disinfectant and in such a small quantity that it will not harm the skin. Read more here: Alcohol in Skincare: The Facts
Moisturisers with Peptides and Glycolic Acid:
- NeoStrata Skin Active Matrix Support SPF 30
- NeoStrata Skin Active Cellular Restoration
- Dermaceutic C25 Cream
Top Aesthetic Procedure Recommendation:
- Superficial chemical peels
- Botox frown and crow’s feet (if necessary)
- Dermal fillers for the fat pad and support loss
- I would also consider the Dermapen MD to further rejuvenate the skin and increase collagen and elastin stimulation
If necessary one may need to add IPL (intense pulse light) for the treatment of stubborn pigmentation marks and laser vein removal for spider veins that appear on the cheeks and the side of one’s nose.
Men I hope you found the above short article informative and that it will motivate you to start a skin care regime specific for your age and skin ageing changes. Please feel free to send me comments or questions that you may have on your skin concern or skin care regime.
Kind regards
Thanks Alek for the important information, will try out some moisturizers and use more sunscreen